Thursday, June 28, 2007
fun signs, part II
Food theme this time around. Below we have Blendy coffee, Delicious Party cheese and dried squid strips (I don't know if I would go with delicious but it was a party of sorts for my unsuspecting taste buds), and of course, Crunky chocolate.
~私のまじめさ~
日本語を練習したいから、機会があったら日本人と話す。いろいろな面白い人が会った。
例えば、北浦和駅の前にある「たこ焼きスタンド」で年をとっている男の人が毎日のようにいる。ある日、私が興味があったそうだから、彼は一つを与えてくれた。おいしかったけど、なにかがわからなかった。それはたこが味があまりないから、なぜ人が食べるのが好きか分からないということだ。（たこ焼きのおいしさはほかの材料のためにと思っていたのが。。。）
とにかく、たこ焼き人と話している時に、彼はたばこを提供したが、私は「たばこをすうのが体に悪いよ」と言った。彼は笑って「そうだよ」と言った。それで、「まじめよ」彼は言った。私はその言葉が分からなかったけど、好運にも辞書があった~
例えば、北浦和駅の前にある「たこ焼きスタンド」で年をとっている男の人が毎日のようにいる。ある日、私が興味があったそうだから、彼は一つを与えてくれた。おいしかったけど、なにかがわからなかった。それはたこが味があまりないから、なぜ人が食べるのが好きか分からないということだ。（たこ焼きのおいしさはほかの材料のためにと思っていたのが。。。）
とにかく、たこ焼き人と話している時に、彼はたばこを提供したが、私は「たばこをすうのが体に悪いよ」と言った。彼は笑って「そうだよ」と言った。それで、「まじめよ」彼は言った。私はその言葉が分からなかったけど、好運にも辞書があった~
Saturday, June 23, 2007
a great idea
Before coming to Japan I did not eat *real* sushi. In other words, I stuck to avocado, cucumber and shitake -- all yummy and harmless enough. I'd always been curious but also somewhat grossed out by the idea of raw fish but I figured, no better time than now to try it. I'm still pretty unadventurous -- so far I stick to salmon, tuna, shrimp and crab -- but I've definitely developed a taste for it.
You hear all the time that Tokyo is so expensive, and this is true in many ways, but at the same time it is definitely possible to eat high quality food for relatively cheap. And by high quality food I mean sushi. (There are also lots of soba, udon and ramen shops where you can eat very cheaply and it's a good bet that the noodles and other ingredients were locally produced.)
My new favorite places to eat are kaiten ("conveyor belt") sushi bars. Customer
s sit around a circular bar, one or two sushi chefs stand in the middle and sushi travels around the bar on a conveyor belt. You take whatever looks good (and in my case, watch in fascination as colorful, tentacled and slimy things go by, waiting to see who will eat what), make your own hot tea and can take as much wasabi, pickled ginger and soy sauce as you like. Pricing is based on the plate colors so when you are done the cashier just adds up your plates. My favorite is yaki-saamon (pan-seared salmon). Never thought I would feel about sushi the way I do about say, cookie dough ice cream but, mmmmm my mouth is watering just thinking about it...
At 100-300yen per plate, most kaiten sushi bars are a very inexpensive way to enjoy really good quality sushi. Well, "really good" is a relative term considering how new I am to the world of sushi. But, I do know that the fish is super fresh (it seems the difference in quality here is between fresh and more fresh) and really tasty, so that is good enough for me.
More to come on just how fresh the fish are later.
You hear all the time that Tokyo is so expensive, and this is true in many ways, but at the same time it is definitely possible to eat high quality food for relatively cheap. And by high quality food I mean sushi. (There are also lots of soba, udon and ramen shops where you can eat very cheaply and it's a good bet that the noodles and other ingredients were locally produced.)
My new favorite places to eat are kaiten ("conveyor belt") sushi bars. Customer
s sit around a circular bar, one or two sushi chefs stand in the middle and sushi travels around the bar on a conveyor belt. You take whatever looks good (and in my case, watch in fascination as colorful, tentacled and slimy things go by, waiting to see who will eat what), make your own hot tea and can take as much wasabi, pickled ginger and soy sauce as you like. Pricing is based on the plate colors so when you are done the cashier just adds up your plates. My favorite is yaki-saamon (pan-seared salmon). Never thought I would feel about sushi the way I do about say, cookie dough ice cream but, mmmmm my mouth is watering just thinking about it...At 100-300yen per plate, most kaiten sushi bars are a very inexpensive way to enjoy really good quality sushi. Well, "really good" is a relative term considering how new I am to the world of sushi. But, I do know that the fish is super fresh (it seems the difference in quality here is between fresh and more fresh) and really tasty, so that is good enough for me.
More to come on just how fresh the fish are later.
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
city impressions
Some (admittedly superficial) first impressions of Tokyo after a couple weeks...
People line up for everything. On the escalators everyone stands to the left and walks to the right. People even line up to get on subway trains or to cross a busy street.
Everyone waits patiently at street corners for the light to change; no one J-walks. This has been one of the hardest things to get used to. I have to stop myself every time from walking out into the middle of the street to wait for a break in traffic. If you so much as step off the curb it elicits strange looks.
There are almost no public trashcans, and yet, hardly any litter.
It takes forever to get anywhere. I spend on average around 3 hours a day commuting. Seems most people have fairly long commutes to get to work or school. Lots of people spend the commute playing games or texting on their cell phones. Yes, there is cell reception on the subway but few people make phone calls, and when they do, they usually cover their mouths and speak quietly.
One apple costs around 300yen at the local supermarket. That's about $2.50.
There are these places called "Pachinko and Slot" everywhere whose primary costumers seem to be salarymen and little old ladies. However, gambling is illegal in Japan so apparently the way these places work is through a system of "prizes" which can be exchanged for money at nearby shops.
Train and subway stations have convenient electronic signs telling you what time the next train will be there and they are usually on time, if not early.
People wear masks covering their nose and mouth in public if they are sick.
People line up for everything. On the escalators everyone stands to the left and walks to the right. People even line up to get on subway trains or to cross a busy street.
Everyone waits patiently at street corners for the light to change; no one J-walks. This has been one of the hardest things to get used to. I have to stop myself every time from walking out into the middle of the street to wait for a break in traffic. If you so much as step off the curb it elicits strange looks.
There are almost no public trashcans, and yet, hardly any litter.
It takes forever to get anywhere. I spend on average around 3 hours a day commuting. Seems most people have fairly long commutes to get to work or school. Lots of people spend the commute playing games or texting on their cell phones. Yes, there is cell reception on the subway but few people make phone calls, and when they do, they usually cover their mouths and speak quietly.
One apple costs around 300yen at the local supermarket. That's about $2.50.
There are these places called "Pachinko and Slot" everywhere whose primary costumers seem to be salarymen and little old ladies. However, gambling is illegal in Japan so apparently the way these places work is through a system of "prizes" which can be exchanged for money at nearby shops.
Train and subway stations have convenient electronic signs telling you what time the next train will be there and they are usually on time, if not early.
People wear masks covering their nose and mouth in public if they are sick.
Monday, June 18, 2007
shinjuku
Walking around Shinjuku this past Saturday night was like something out of a movie. I stuck out like a sore thumb in my t-shirt, jeans and flip-flops, which, by the way, I have hardly worn since we were all warned that showing your toes in public is a no-no. (I was surprised to see that for the most part this seems to be the case -- open-toe wearers most times wear stockings or knee-high socks.)
The crowds of teenagers and 20-somethings had crazy poofy hairdos, colorful make-up and big jewelry, snazzy suits and short short skirts with billowy, lacy tops. Like they'd all been pulled off the runway of some important fashion show.
In my wanderings I happened upon a movie theater and because I love movies and thought it would be a good opportunity to *study* Japanese I decided to check it out. They were showing a lot of American movies, although none that really appealed to me (mostly blockbuster-types like Pirates III, etc). I decided on 大日本人 (Dainipponjin), which literally means "Big Japanese Person." Turned out to be a good choice. I would say I understood about 60-70% of what was being said but got enough of it to know it was pretty great. Imagine Clark Kent meets the Dude and throw in some anime scenes with eccentric *monsters* tearing up familiar buildings in downtown Tokyo. The craziest part was at the end when a troupe of American superheroes come to save the day and take Dainipponjin with them to their house in the sky for dinner. Fantastic!
Afterward I found myself part of a human stampede in Shinjuku station. The trains do not run 24/7 like in NYC, even on the weekends, so around midnight everyone has to make the big decision -- go home or stay out til the first trains start running again around 5am. I was not particularly keen on the latter so I found myself running to find the correct platform.
Side note on Shinjuku station: it is ridiculous. I can think of no good analogy. The station itself is enormous and depending on which side you exit from, you can find yourself in a completely different neighborhood. Inside the station itself there are department stores, food courts, bookstores, restaurants, at least one mall, and not to mention platforms for several different subway and train lines. My teacher, Nakamura-sensei, who has lived in Tokyo for over 20 years, said that it is difficult even for her to find her way around Shinjuku station.
I'm just happy that I can remember the names of the lines I need to take and what direction to take them. I'll save trying to figure out Shinjuku station for another trip.
The crowds of teenagers and 20-somethings had crazy poofy hairdos, colorful make-up and big jewelry, snazzy suits and short short skirts with billowy, lacy tops. Like they'd all been pulled off the runway of some important fashion show.
In my wanderings I happened upon a movie theater and because I love movies and thought it would be a good opportunity to *study* Japanese I decided to check it out. They were showing a lot of American movies, although none that really appealed to me (mostly blockbuster-types like Pirates III, etc). I decided on 大日本人 (Dainipponjin), which literally means "Big Japanese Person." Turned out to be a good choice. I would say I understood about 60-70% of what was being said but got enough of it to know it was pretty great. Imagine Clark Kent meets the Dude and throw in some anime scenes with eccentric *monsters* tearing up familiar buildings in downtown Tokyo. The craziest part was at the end when a troupe of American superheroes come to save the day and take Dainipponjin with them to their house in the sky for dinner. Fantastic!
Afterward I found myself part of a human stampede in Shinjuku station. The trains do not run 24/7 like in NYC, even on the weekends, so around midnight everyone has to make the big decision -- go home or stay out til the first trains start running again around 5am. I was not particularly keen on the latter so I found myself running to find the correct platform.
Side note on Shinjuku station: it is ridiculous. I can think of no good analogy. The station itself is enormous and depending on which side you exit from, you can find yourself in a completely different neighborhood. Inside the station itself there are department stores, food courts, bookstores, restaurants, at least one mall, and not to mention platforms for several different subway and train lines. My teacher, Nakamura-sensei, who has lived in Tokyo for over 20 years, said that it is difficult even for her to find her way around Shinjuku station.
I'm just happy that I can remember the names of the lines I need to take and what direction to take them. I'll save trying to figure out Shinjuku station for another trip.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
nikko
This past weekend we were given 3 days off so I went with fellow hichiriki player Ben to Nikko, an area a few hours northwest of the city. The closest analogy I can think of is going from NYC to the Catskills in upstate NY, except even more scenic and beautiful, not to mention it's the home of several major shrines and temples. Also apparently the home of the famous monkeys (the ones that don't see, hear or speak the bad stuff), although we never did find them.
It rained all weekend but was beautiful nonetheless. We agreed it was the most beautiful place either of us had been. Mountains everywhere, waterfalls, hiking, shrines, rivers, every imaginable shade of green. Also went to an Onsen for the first time and loved it, very relaxing.
It finally cleared up on the last day so I could take some pics. Above are the Ryuzu Falls and below is a view across the Yutaki Lake.
Monday, June 11, 2007
visit to the imperial grounds
Last Friday the four of us went to the Imperial grounds to observe a gagaku rehearsal and tour some of the gardens. The Imperial grounds are separated from the rest of To
kyo by a moat. The medieval feeling of it was reinforced when we had to walk across a bridge and climb through a mini-door that was part of a huge wooden gate. Here is a view of the moat separating downtown Tokyo from the Imperial grounds-->
The gagaku stage there had the biggest taiko drums I have ever seen. In this picture the taiko is to the right of the smaller kakko drum. You can see the people standing in the background to get an idea of the scale -->
Before and after the rehearsal we met with Togi-sensei, the Head Court Musician (indicated as a "Human Treasure" on his business card) and played for him. Not sure if it's the novelty thing or if he actually thought we sounded good but he invited us back sit in on some of his classes.
kyo by a moat. The medieval feeling of it was reinforced when we had to walk across a bridge and climb through a mini-door that was part of a huge wooden gate. Here is a view of the moat separating downtown Tokyo from the Imperial grounds-->
<--And the door we had to climb through.
The gagaku stage there had the biggest taiko drums I have ever seen. In this picture the taiko is to the right of the smaller kakko drum. You can see the people standing in the background to get an idea of the scale -->Before and after the rehearsal we met with Togi-sensei, the Head Court Musician (indicated as a "Human Treasure" on his business card) and played for him. Not sure if it's the novelty thing or if he actually thought we sounded good but he invited us back sit in on some of his classes.
After the rehearsal we had a chance to tour some of the gardens. Very beautiful and totally removed from the city that surrounds it. It reminded me somewhat of Central Park, albeit much cleaner, very well-kept and minus all the people.
Thursday, June 7, 2007
浅草
昨日浅草で雷門や金龍山浅草寺を見に行った。日本人や外国人がたくさんいた。でも、浅草寺近くに、いろいろなもっと小さくて人が少ない寺や神社や庭もあった。とても幽勝なところだった。
浅草寺に行った後で、浅草の辺に歩いた。いろいろな店や酒屋を見た。一つの日本式の酒屋に行った。私たちは、アメリカに比べて全部のことがもっと小さかったと思っていた。椅子もテブルも人もちいさい。このところで日本人に会って友達になった。一人は結婚するために買った着物を見せた。とても面白かった。
Monday, June 4, 2007
why i am in japan
Since several of you have asked, and "asia" is quite an ambiguous and all-encompassing term (working on a better title for this blog, ideas welcome), I thought I'd take a minute to explain just what exactly it is that I am doing in Japan.
Over the past year I took an ensemble class called "World Music: Gagaku." Gagaku is the imperial court music of Japan, featuring instruments like the ryuteki, sho, koto, biwa and my personal fav, the hichiriki. The hichiriki is a double reed instrument that is loud and hard to play, but is also basically the diva of the gagaku stage.
After a year of study I can play 2 1/2 ish songs and am still trying to figure out the written system for reading music. Part of the problem on that front is that it is not always consistent and so I came to learn mostly from ear. Now I need to really know it though in order to learn at a quicker pace and to practice on my own.
In addition to learning how to play in a completely foreign and somewhat esoteric music tradition, after the year had passed I found myself with a free ticket to study Gagaku in Tokyo for 6 weeks this summer. The program was created this year and is called the Mentor/Protege Gagaku Summer Initiative. For any of you who haven't graduated yet -- take the class next year and apply! only those taking the class are eligible and this year 4 people were chosen out of a class of around 10 people.
Since the program is in its first year it seems we are all finding out what it entails together. We have lessons around 3 or 4 times a week at different places in the city -- very convenient for sightseeing -- and will be attending several Gagaku concerts. Also, this Friday we get to attend a Gagaku practice inside the Imperial Palace, which is apparently a very big deal. Unlike the White House, the Imperial Palace is off-limits for most Japanese -- no tours, etc.
So far our schedule has been pretty laid back. Plenty of time to adjust to the time change, explore, excercise, and generally do my own thing, which I of course love. Only set back so far has been trying to get an adapter for my computer. Probably should have looked into it before leaving the States but, oh well. Until I get one though I have to use the computer lab, which makes it harder to upload pics... I have heard that for Dell computers all you need is a plug that accepts a three-prong and plugs into a two-prong outlet and that since the voltage here is pretty close to the US you don't need an actual *adapter.* Anyone know more about this?
Over the past year I took an ensemble class called "World Music: Gagaku." Gagaku is the imperial court music of Japan, featuring instruments like the ryuteki, sho, koto, biwa and my personal fav, the hichiriki. The hichiriki is a double reed instrument that is loud and hard to play, but is also basically the diva of the gagaku stage.
After a year of study I can play 2 1/2 ish songs and am still trying to figure out the written system for reading music. Part of the problem on that front is that it is not always consistent and so I came to learn mostly from ear. Now I need to really know it though in order to learn at a quicker pace and to practice on my own.
In addition to learning how to play in a completely foreign and somewhat esoteric music tradition, after the year had passed I found myself with a free ticket to study Gagaku in Tokyo for 6 weeks this summer. The program was created this year and is called the Mentor/Protege Gagaku Summer Initiative. For any of you who haven't graduated yet -- take the class next year and apply! only those taking the class are eligible and this year 4 people were chosen out of a class of around 10 people.
Since the program is in its first year it seems we are all finding out what it entails together. We have lessons around 3 or 4 times a week at different places in the city -- very convenient for sightseeing -- and will be attending several Gagaku concerts. Also, this Friday we get to attend a Gagaku practice inside the Imperial Palace, which is apparently a very big deal. Unlike the White House, the Imperial Palace is off-limits for most Japanese -- no tours, etc.
So far our schedule has been pretty laid back. Plenty of time to adjust to the time change, explore, excercise, and generally do my own thing, which I of course love. Only set back so far has been trying to get an adapter for my computer. Probably should have looked into it before leaving the States but, oh well. Until I get one though I have to use the computer lab, which makes it harder to upload pics... I have heard that for Dell computers all you need is a plug that accepts a three-prong and plugs into a two-prong outlet and that since the voltage here is pretty close to the US you don't need an actual *adapter.* Anyone know more about this?
Sunday, June 3, 2007
Arrival at Nihongo Kokusai Center
Arrived in Tokyo yesterday afternoon around 1pm. I somehow managed to get a cell phone and find the right train to take me to Nippori station. I was completely zonked and not looking forward to trying to find my way to the Nihongo Kokusai Center on my own. Lucky for me, Terumi-san was waiting at the station to take me there. Talking with her and walking from the station to the dorm gave me a second wind so I did a little exploring on my own later in the day.
The part of the city where we are staying is called Kita Urawa. It seems to be a mainly residential area with a little "down town" area near the station, kind of like a suburb I guess. Much different feel though than New York or Columbus suburbs. Cleaner, less cars, lots and lots of bicycles. It seems most people walk and use public transportation.
I noticed as we were walking to the dorm that all the bikes lining the sidewalk did not seem to be locked up. Terumi seemed amused by my question and said that no, they don't usually lock their bikes. I guess Miho and others were right when they said that people don't steal here. (Recalling that she claimed to have lost her wallet several times in Tokyo and every time it was returned to her with nothing taken from it!)
The place we are staying is the Nihongo Kokusai Center. Most of the other people staying here are studying to be Japanese teachers. The facilities are really great -- computer lab, lounges,
convenience store, a cafeteria, free bikes to borrow, etc.
While searching for some dinner last night came across this display that reminded me of Taiwan. It's all plastic representations of the food they serve put into a display case so you can just point. How convenient for the dumb foreigner! It made me laugh remembering the same oddly practical displays in Taiwan so I took a pic. More interesting pics to come, I promse.
Friday, June 1, 2007
旅行の＊小さい＊問題
今週の月曜日日本へ行くつもりだった。でも、小さい問題があった。月曜日に、空港でパースポートがないことが分かった。バカバカ～～
パースポートがどこか分からないから、新しいのをかけらなくてはいけなかった。それから、明日もらって、土曜日に、JFK から都京へ行く。
だから、今週ニューヨークに、従妹のアパートに泊まっている。本を読んだり、どこへも歩いたり、ブローグをしたりすることができる。
英語では、「生活にレモンをもらったら、レモネードを作った方がいい」ということわざがある。このように思うことにするの。。。
パースポートがどこか分からないから、新しいのをかけらなくてはいけなかった。それから、明日もらって、土曜日に、JFK から都京へ行く。
だから、今週ニューヨークに、従妹のアパートに泊まっている。本を読んだり、どこへも歩いたり、ブローグをしたりすることができる。
英語では、「生活にレモンをもらったら、レモネードを作った方がいい」ということわざがある。このように思うことにするの。。。
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